Simplicity pattern 1660 misses top in yellow linen
I purchased this Simplicity sewing pattern 1660 top. Before cutting the pattern I started by studying the image on the pattern envelope. It is a very good indication of how the garment fits. More accurate when there is an image of the garment sewn then photographed on a live person. At first glance this blouse model was loose fitting, formidable, no need to sew a mock-up (muslin). But I new that the neckline was too low for my taste.
See how I modified to pattern to raise the front neckline
Simplicity sewing pattern 1660 top
The fabric chosen by Simplicity was a lightweight fabric that had a good drape to it. (Drape is the way a fabric hangs under its own weight).
My chosen fabric was a medium weight blend of cotton and linen that remained a little stiff even after being washed and dried. I chose that fabric because it was yellow, I wanted yellow (I was very influenced by the color chosen by simplicity for the blouse), and this cotton linen blend was the ideal color. Therefore I chose to cut the pattern in a smaller size, otherwise with my stiff fabric the blouse would end up hanging rigidly like a tent around me, looking bulky and adding pounds to my figure.
I measured my hips and cut the pattern size that fit them. In this pattern it was the size Medium that fit my hips including 2 inches (5 cm) for wearing ease.
Also, on the pattern picture, the front neckline looked low. When cutting the front pattern, I kept all the neckline gradation sizes. (See image below). I then simply pinned the paper pattern on me over my sweater to verify where the neckline level arrived. (When doing so, do not forget that the paper pattern includes the seam allowances). I definitely wanted a higher neckline to be comfortable to wear this blouse for work, adding 1 inch (2.25 cm) would be enough.
Here is how I raised the neckline
(Remember that I cut the pattern in the size medium). Having kept all grading sizes on the pattern front neckline, I measured that the XL size raised the neckline by an extra 1 inch (2.55 cm). Perfect! I then added a seam allowance (see the arrow).
Raising the neckline made the front neckline circumference measurement shorter. We would usually need to adjust the width of the collar pattern to reduce it’s length . But since I used a fabric with natural fibers, I knew that my one inch difference would be easy to distribute on the total neck circumference. Once ironed with steam, the result was perfect. IMPORTANT; if my fabric had been 100% polyester, I would of absolutely had to reduce the length of the collar pattern. Polyester and other synthetics fibers have some elasticity, but nothing comparable to natural fibers.
Once the blouse was finished, I tried it on and concluded that, yes, it needed a little pizazz. Let’s customize this top.
I thought about some left over ribbon that I had used to do Easter crafting with my nieces. Yup! The yellow was a perfect match, and I had enough on the spool to sew over both side seams.
Here is how I did it.
I inserted and sewed the link inside at the ribbon before sewing the ribbon on the bodice.
I folded 2 inches (5 cm) of the ribbon at one end, then folded the ribbon over the the “D” link and top-stitch the end, securing the link inside between the 2 layers.
I then pinned the ribbon over the side seams. Since the ribbon was transparent and had stripes, it was easy to center the ribbon while following the lateral seam.
When I arrived at the end of the sleeve edge, under the arm, I simply cut the ribbon 1/2 inch (1.30 cm) longer that the length of the sleeve end. I folded the ribbon over itself (not under the sleeve) to get an even finish at the end of the sleeve edge.
I then top stitched the ribbon in place, pivoting at the sleeve hem edges, and then down the other side of the ribbon.
Here is a close-up of the finished details.
And I thought that it could still take more adornments; what else is new!
I hand sew some plastic old gold spikes along the shoulder seams.
For another Bland to Bling project I hand sewn spikes on a seamed beanie hat.
HOW TO HAND SEW THE FLAT-BACK SPIKES
Double thread a needle and knot the end. Choose the placement for your first spike. Pass the needle from underside to the outside of the fabric. Pull the thread all the way through until the knot arrives at the underside of the fabric. String one spike by passing the needle through the carry on hole and pin the needle in the fabric to return the thread on the underside of the hat. Repeat this process about three times. On your last repetition make a knot on the underside of the fabric.
Below the finished Simplicity sewing pattern 1660 top
Last step, let’s make some jewelry to match my new top!
This following story explains that while looking at my bespoke earrings I was thinking to myself, what are these earrings reminding me of ?
OH! Ya! those Clackers... : (
I am taking you with me down my memory lane (sorry about that). In first grade I spent my allowance money on the trendy toy of the moment that we called Clackers. You see the picture of them on the right side above. I wanted blue or red ones, but by the time I saved the amount of money needed, the 5 and dime store only had yellow ones left. The game consisted of swinging the two spheres up and down so they banged against each other making a clacking sound. I was so excited that I ripped the package open and started playing with them as soon has I passed the store front doors.
My friends formed a half circle around me and I started swinging the balls. They were heavy and after a few swings, I got the hang of it and the spheres started to go very fast….then the balls flew right out of my hand and hit me in the face and hard under the chin! I started crying in front of my friends… I never played with those Clackers after that, but I kept them in my drawers of goodies for a very long time.
How about you? Have you ever wanted a toy that looked great in theory but was disappointing to play with?